Corn and Green Bean Salad With Tomatillo Dressing

MARTHA ROSE SHULMAN

In a great end-of-summer salad, this tomatillo dressing has a delicate and wonderfully herbal flavor. The salad is all about texture and color.

For the dressing:

1/4 pound fresh tomatillos, husked

1 serrano chili, seeded for a milder dressing and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

10 cilantro sprigs

1 tablespoon chopped onion, soaked in cold water for five minutes, drained and rinsed

1 garlic clove, peeled

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt to taste

For the salad:

Kernels from 2 ears corn

3/4 pound green beans, trimmed and cut in 2-inch lengths (about 3 cups)

1 large or 2 medium tomatoes, cut in 1/4-inch dice

4 radishes, cut in half lengthwise then sliced thin in half-moons

2 tablespoons minced chives

Lettuce leaves for the platter or bowl

1/4 cup crumbled queso fresco (1 ounce)

1. Preheat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on top, stem side down. Place under the broiler at the highest rack setting and broil two to five minutes, until charred on one side. Turn over and broil on the other side for two to five minutes, until charred on the other side. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender, tipping in any juice that may have accumulated on the baking sheet. Add the chili, lime juice, cilantro sprigs, onion, garlic and olive oil to the blender and blend until smooth. Taste and adjust salt, and set aside.

2. Steam the corn kernels (or steam the entire ear, then cut the kernels off) and beans above one inch of boiling water for five minutes, until tender. Remove from the heat, refresh with cold water and drain on paper towels. Place in a bowl and toss with the tomato, radishes, chives and the dressing. Line a platter or wide bowl with the lettuce leaves, top with the salad, sprinkle on the crumbled cheese and serve.

Yield: Serves six generously.

Advance preparation: You can prepare the dressing and the salad several hours before serving, but don’t toss together until ready to serve. Refrigerate in separate bowls.

Nutritional information per serving: 129 calories; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 2 milligrams cholesterol; 14 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 19 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 3 grams protein

Martha Rose Shulman can be reached at martha-rose-shulman.com. Her new book, “The Very Best of Recipes for Health,” was recently published by Rodale Press.

Recipe:

If you’ve eaten salsa verde in a Mexican restaurant, you’ve eaten tomatillos. Though the name suggests that tomatillos are small green tomatoes, they are not. They’re in the same family as tomatoes but more closely related to the cape gooseberry and surrounded by a similar papery husk. Always look for tomatillos that have filled their husks, as they are not fully mature until they do. Remove the husks, then rinse the tomatillos, which will be sticky, and they’re ready to cook.

Tomatillos have a rounder, fruitier and more acidic flavor and a richer texture than regular green tomatoes. I wouldn’t try to substitute one for the other. Happily it’s not difficult to find fresh tomatillos in supermarkets that stock Mexican ingredients. If you can find only canned tomatillos, an 11-ounce can be substituted for 1 pound of fresh tomatillos in this week’s recipes. The canned variety has already been simmered until softened, and all you have to do is drain them. Cooking by simmering or, preferably, broiling is the first step in all of my tomatillo recipes; skip this step if you’re working with canned.

Look for tomatillos that are relatively small, about 1 1/2 ounces, or slightly larger than walnuts. According to the Mexican food aficionado Rick Bayless, the big ones, sometimes larger than golf balls, are not as flavorful and can taste bitter. Sometimes I find tomatillos that are tinged with purple, and this variety is especially flavorful.

Tomatillos are a good source of iron, magnesium, phosphorus and copper, as well as dietary fiber, vitamin C, vitamin K, niacin, potassium and manganese.

Quick Roasted Tomatillo Salsa

This is a classic Mexican blender tomatillo salsa. Once the tomatillos are roasted there is no cooking involved. Serve this tangy, medium-hot salsa with roasted or microwaved tortilla chips, or use it for quick tacos or as an easy condiment for grilled fish or chicken.

1 pound tomatillos, husked and rinsed

2 to 4 jalapeño or serrano chilies, roasted if desired (see below), seeded for a milder salsa, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup chopped onion, soaked for five minutes in cold water, drained and rinsed

1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro

Salt to taste

About 1/2 cup water, as needed

1. Preheat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on top, stem side down. If you wish to roast the chilies, place them on the baking sheet as well. Place under the broiler at the highest rack setting and broil two to five minutes, until charred on one side (the chilies will be charred after a minute or two). Turn over and broil on the other side for two to five minutes, until charred on the other side. Remove from the heat. If you have roasted the chilies, peel and stem them, and coarsely chop.

2. Transfer the tomatillos and chilies to a blender, tipping in any juice that may have accumulated on the foil. Add the onion, cilantro and 1/4 cup water to the blender and blend to a coarse purée. Transfer to a bowl and thin out as desired with water. Taste and adjust salt. Set aside for at least 30 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to develop.

Variation: You can add one or two garlic cloves to the blender if you wish.

Yield: 2 cups, serving six to eight.

Advance preparation: This will hold for three or four days in the refrigerator, but the fresher it is, the more vivid the flavors will be.

Nutritional information per serving (for six servings): 29 calories; 1 gram fat; 0 grams saturated fat; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 5 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 2 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 1 gram protein

Martha Rose Shulman can be reached at martha-rose-shulman.com. Her new book, “The Very Best of Recipes for Health,” was recently published by Rodale Press.

Recipe:

Of all the dishes I make with tomatillos, this one counts as the greatest comfort food. You can toast the tortillas in a microwave: zap them for one minute at 100 percent power, and turn them over and zap them again. Repeat until they are crisp and brown, then break up into large pieces.

1 medium boneless, skinless chicken breast (6 to 8 ounces), poached and shredded

1 pound fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed

2 or 3 jalapeño or serrano chilies, stemmed, seeded for a milder salsa

1/4 cup chopped white onion, soaked for five minutes in cold water, then drained and rinsed

2 large garlic cloves, peeled

Salt to taste

12 cilantro sprigs, plus additional chopped cilantro for garnish

1 tablespoon canola oil

2 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

2 medium summer squash, diced (a mixture of green and yellow is pretty)

8 corn tortillas, toasted in a microwave or in an oven and broken into small pieces

1/2 cup low-fat Greek-style yogurt or crumbled queso fresco

Sliced radishes for garnish

1. Poach the chicken breast, shred or cut into small dice and set aside.

2. Place the tomatillos in a saucepan, fill with water and bring to a simmer. Simmer 10 minutes, turning them over halfway through. Drain and place in a blender. Add the chilies, chopped onion, garlic, salt and cilantro sprigs. Blend until smooth.

3. Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan or skillet over medium-high heat. Drizzle in a drop of oil to test the heat. If it sizzles and sputters immediately, the oil is hot enough. Add the tomatillo purée and stir constantly until it thickens and begins to stick to the pan, about five minutes. When you run your spoon down the middle of the pan it should leave a canal. Stir in the stock, bring to a simmer and simmer 10 minutes, stirring often. Add the summer squash and simmer, stirring often, until tender, about 10 minutes. The sauce should coat the front and back of your spoon. Stir in the chicken and heat through. Taste and adjust seasoning. Just before serving bring to a simmer and stir in the tortilla chips. Garnish with the yogurt or cheese, sliced radishes and chopped cilantro. Serve at once.

Yield: Serves four.

Advance preparation: The sauce will keep for four days in the refrigerator and can be reheated just before adding the tortilla pieces.

Nutritional information per serving: 233 calories; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 29 milligrams cholesterol; 26 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams dietary fiber; 356 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 17 grams protein.

Martha Rose Shulman can be reached at martha-rose-shulman.com. Her new book, “The Very Best of Recipes for Health,” was recently published by Rodale Press.

Recipe:

This is a guacamole with a punch. The roasted tomatillos blended with hot chilies add acidity and spice to the creamy avocados. It has the luxuriousness of guacamole at just over half the calories.

1/2 pound fresh tomatillos, husked

1 jalapeño or 2 to 3 serrano chilies, seeded if desired and roughly chopped

10 cilantro sprigs, plus additional leaves for garnish

Salt to taste

2 small or 1 1/2 large ripe avocados

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

1. Preheat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on top, stem side down. Place under the broiler at the highest rack setting and broil two to five minutes, until charred on one side. Turn over and broil on the other side for two to five minutes, until charred on the other side. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender, tipping in any juice that has accumulated on the baking sheet. Add the chilies, cilantro sprigs and salt to the blender and blend to a coarse purée.

2. Cut the avocados in half and twist the two halves apart. Scoop out the flesh into a bowl or the bowl of a mortar and pestle. Mash with a fork or pestle. Do not use a food processor or a blender, as you want to retain some texture. Stir in the lime juice, the tomatillo mixture and salt to taste and combine well. Transfer to a bowl and serve with baked or microwaved tortilla chips or crudités, or use for tacos or avocado sandwiches.

Yield: 1 1/2 cups, serving six.

Advance preparation: This will hold for a couple of hours in the refrigerator but is best eaten soon after preparing.

Nutritional information per serving: 107 calories; 9 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 8 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 5 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 2 grams protein

Martha Rose Shulman can be reached at martha-rose-shulman.com. Her new book, “The Very Best of Recipes for Health,” was recently published by Rodale Press.

Recipe:

This fragrant, pungent shrimp dish is an adaptation of a dish from Veracruz. In the authentic dish the herbal flavor comes from hoja santa, an aniselike Mexican herb that isn’t easy to find in the United States. I’ve created a flavor that is reminiscent of hoja santa by combining basil, tarragon and mint.

5 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved

Salt to taste

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/2 pound tomatillos, husked

2 serrano chilies, stemmed

1/2 cup fresh basil leaves

2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves

1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves

1 1/4 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

Freshly ground pepper

1. Place the garlic in a mortar and pestle with a generous pinch of salt and grind to a paste. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and blend together.

2. Preheat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil and place the tomatillos on top, stem side down. Place under the broiler at the highest rack setting and broil two to five minutes, until charred on one side. Turn over and broil on the other side for two to five minutes, until charred on the other side. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender, tipping in any juice that may have accumulated on the baking sheet. Add the chilies, basil, mint and tarragon and blend until smooth. Season to taste.

3. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over medium-high heat in a heavy saucepan and add the shrimp. Cook on one side for one minute, then, using tongs, turn the shrimp over and cook on the other side for one minute. Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate.

4. Add the garlic paste to the hot pan and cook, stirring, for another 30 seconds to a minute, until fragrant. Add the tomatillo mixture, stir together, turn the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring often, for five minutes, until the sauce thickens slightly. Return the shrimp to the pan, bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, for about three minutes, until the sauce coats the shrimp and the shrimp is tender but still moist. Taste, adjust salt and serve.

Yield: Serves four.

Advance preparation: You can prepare the green purée several hours before cooking, but for the most part, this is a last-minute dish, like a stir-fry.

Variation: This sauce is also delicious with vegetables or with white beans.

Nutritional information per serving: 184 calories; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 189 milligrams cholesterol; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 221 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 21 grams protein

Martha Rose Shulman can be reached at martha-rose-shulman.com. Her new book, “The Very Best of Recipes for Health,” was recently published by Rodale Press.